Indie Rock Girl is the same no matter where you go. She has thick black plastic rimmed glasses, a vintage t-shirt and some blue jeans on, even in Reno. I had just put a Pavement song on the jukebox and she smiled at me and poured out a Belgian beer. It was then I realized that I was in one of classiest bars in Reno, and that Reno isn’t at all what I expected it to be. The bar, the St. James Infirmary, looked nice; from the vintage lounge furniture straight out of Mad Men, to the TV behind the bar that played “Edward Scissor Hands” in black and white. I expected Reno to be full of domestic disputes, incompetent cops and a whole lot of meth and trailers. Instead I was in a swanky bar listening to Indie Rock Girl sell my recently discharged best friend, Mat, a $40 dollar bottle of beer. Mat is large; broad shouldered, bearded and wore a flannel shirt. Mat eventually gave into her unrelenting pressure and ordered it and out it came with champagne flutes and a bucket of ice. Called Deus, Biere de Champagne, a Belgian ale aged in champagne casks, and when poured, it came out bubbly and sweet. However it wasn’t worth $40 and even when Indie Rock Girl started to tell us about her dream wedding we began to get bored and realize this wasn’t the Reno we came to see.
We left the bar and headed back to the strip. It was nearing midnight and the bright neon lights of Reno were lit up and fantastic. We walked down the street and saw a man in a white shirt (his face gushing blood) run up the street. We asked him if he was okay and he replied that he had just been hit in the face with a pipe. I thought perhaps he was being ridiculous but half a minute later, a man came around the corner with a pipe in his hand, looked both ways very nervously and then scurried off. This is the Reno we had been looking for and its people were now telling us their story.
We ducked into a little casino called the Nugget real quick, figuring that would safer than walking the dark streets where marauders wielding pipes prowled. The front of it was a dingy, smoked filled room with video poker machines and slots ringing, their lights flashing. We walked to the greasy spoon diner in the back; looking like it had not passed a health inspection in decades. With only limited seats and a small counter space, teenagers looking for trouble and drunk tourists trying to order food with slurred words and spittle, idled around the small area. We ordered some burgers, their infamous “Awful Awful” burger, which came served on a huge basket of garlic fries. The burger emerged from the grill sizzling huge and sloppy; layered in cheese, dressing and a mound of saturated fats.
After the burger, with chests tightening up from cholesterol, we wandered for a few blocks back and found the Reno police department near the National Bowling Stadium. Apparently Reno Sheriff’s department is a fabrication from the popular show Reno 911! because Reno is in Washoe county and the city has its own police force. We took some photos of it and then a friendly policewoman came outside and asked us if we needed anything and we said no, we were only taking photos of their station because of the satirical show on Comedy Central. She rolled her eyes and laughed a little.
After this we wandered back onto the strip and entered one of the casinos. I don’t think casinos are my thing; smoke filled, the cacophony of slot machines ringing and buzzing ad nauseum, old ladies sitting in front of them oxygen tanks in tow. But the casinos are one of the reasons Reno is so famous. Mat decided to retry his luck at Blackjack and sat down at a table next to two middle aged men, throwing away their children’s college fund. Mat started to do well and continued to sit there and I was bored. I went over to a penny slot machine to see if I could understand what made these things so popular amongst the elderly. I slipped in a dollar and started hitting buttons and it started flashing and beeping and making all sorts of noise. Now I guess if I had grown up during the great depression, this would seem high tech and neat-o, but it sort of annoyed me, I just wanted my money without all the bells and whistles. But I kept winning and it kept going on. The next thing I knew I had won $30 dollars and I decided it was time to get up, because I wasn’t even expecting to get my dollar back. I went and checked on my friend who was now seated next to some gangsters sporting tattoos of 666 and eagles brandishing Kalashnikovs in front of a Mexican flag, and they were having a pleasant discussion about harvest time up in Oregon.
Sometimes a city doesn’t live up to your expectations and sometimes it does. Sometimes you run into a man who just got hit with a pipe. And sometimes Indie Rock Girl starts telling you about her dream wedding. But even though Reno is better known for its casinos and trailer parks, there are also a lot of other people; people who love to bowl and gorge themselves at an all you can eat buffet, people who love to spend their organized crime earnings at the black jack table, people who love the biggest little city in the world.